Rear brake change on a volkswagen golf mk7
Rear brake job on a vw golf mk7
I’m renewing the rear brakes on a volkswagen golf mk7, brake pads and rotors. Bonus challenge, the car has ebrakes, the thing can’t be take apart without a diagnostics tool.
Parts & documentation
As always good preparation is key. VW cars being popular, I managed to obtain good documentation easily.
There are at least 3 or 4 brake types installed on the golf mk7 all with different parts. To find the matching parts I use all the car codes I can find (vin, engine, etc) do visual comparison, plus measure the rotor size and check bolt types and sizes.
Next I read and understands the procedure and double-check on youtube and forums.
Tools & parts
- Jacks lift the car
- Car diagnostics tool, releases the parking brake (ex. Obdeleven)
- Hex bit no.7, removes caliper pin bolts
- M14 triple square (or spline) socket, removes caliper bolts
- Caliper tool, pushes caliper cylinders in
- Torque wrench
- Brush wire, old rag for cleaning
- Glasses and gloves for protection
- Bungee to support the caliper
Lubes and sprays:
- Brake cleaner
- Copper grease
- Silicon lube
- Heat resistant paint (optional)
- new rotors
- new pads
- new bolts and pins (optional, if you can find them)
Secure car, untighten wheel bolts, lift and place on jacks, remove wheel.
- Release handbrake (using the button inside the car)
- Use diagnostics tool to retract cylinders
- Open brake fluid container and extract some fluid with a syringe
- Remove caliper wire with a screwdriver
- Remove caps on the rubber boots
- Unscrew pin screws
- Remove the old pads
- Use the caliper tool to push back the cylinders
- Unscrew caliper bolts (use a long breaker bar)
- Remove old rotor
Cleaning & preparation:
- Clean everything with wire brush and brake cleaner
- Check that wheel hub turns smoothly
Reinstall in reverse order, additionally:
- Copper grease on the wheel hub
- Clean the pins and apply silicon grease
Tightening torques: 35 NM on the small bolts, 90NM + 90DEG on the big bolts
- Press brake pedal a couple of times
- Top off brake fluid if needed
- Use diagnostics tool to engage cylinders
- Drive around and check the fluid level again
Start with removing the caliper bolts on the back that’s the most difficult part. These are very well tight, I had a long breaker bar, alternatively try pushing the wrench with one foot.
There isn’t a lot of room to access the bolts, have multiple wrenches and extensions at hand. I found it best to put an extension through the spring coil, that gets better leverage.
Once the top part of the caliper is off, move it out of the way by hooking it up to he shock absorber with a bungee. There is a clip on the brake lines that can be disconnected easily to allow a bit more movement of the part.
Stuck rotors. Smack the front of the rotor with hammer but have a partially screwed bolt on the rotor to prevent if from flying away. Use eye protection and a rag to minimize flying debris. It took me a good few minutes of heavy hammering with a 400g hammer.
The new brake rotors might be oily, clean them with brake lube.
Obdeleven usage. To retract the brakes, first disengage the brakes, go to brakes module, basic settings,
start brake lining change. Hear the motor spinning and a yellow warning showing on the dash, turn off the ignition. After brakes are re-assembled re-deploy the brakes using
end brake lining change
Result and pics
Brake before disassembly front and back. Pretty beaten for a four years old brake …
New parts in and the result
This was my first attempt at doing this job. It took me one weekend research, and one Saturday to execute it.
- Elsa, the vw documentation app
- Obdeleven, a similarly popular diagnostics tool